Driving the Nullarbor is like being in a post-apocalyptic movie. There’s a good chance you’ll go hundreds of kilometres without seeing another car. If you want to be alone congratulations you have found the place. However, it does mean you’ve got to plan ahead before you set off.
The Nullarbor Plain is a 200,000km2 expanse of flat, treeless, limestone bedrock that stretches across South Australia into Western Australia. The easiest and most common way to cross it is by traveling along the Eyre Highway, also known as the A1. Which is not a description of the quality of the road. If you are traveling East to West then think of it as Ceduna in South Australia to Norseman in Western Australia. Between these two towns, you’ll find roadhouses, caravan parks, secluded beaches, and more wildlife than you’d find in any zoo. Here’s a tip the reason they are called “wild” life is that they are not pets and don’t play well with tourists.
If you’re in a rush, the Nullarbor can be crossed in as little as two days, but it is not a race. To really experience the crossing and see all there is to see, it will take three or four days. This extra time allows for detours to see the Great Australian Bight (it is amazing, don’t miss it) and to explore a few of the roadhouses along the way.
It is really important to consider the distance between stops along the Nullarbor. It’s nearly 200km between towns at some points and because of these huge distances, the price of everything goes up. Petrol is over the top, but if you can’t afford the petrol you can’t afford to do the trip, and you’ll be paying through the nose for a cup of coffee in some roadhouses, and don’t get me started on the price of poached eggs and smashed avo!
Because shops are few and far between, you also won’t have the same range of available products you’d find in your local supermarket. Most grub you’ll find in the roadhouses will be the standard ‘pub fare’. If you have special dietary requirements, bring them with you. Don’t be surprised if a garden salad is the only vegan or vegetarian thing on the menu.
Typically, the closer to Norseman or Ceduna you are, the more reasonable the prices are. This is why it’s always better to stock up on fuel, food, and water before you head out onto the Nullarbor, even if it isn’t time for a refill. Remember Bourke and Wills you don’t want to have someone find you sitting under a tree dying for a Tim tam and a cup of tea.
It’s always a good idea to work out how much fuel you’ll be using. The longest distance between fuel stops is Balladonia and Norseman, which is 192km and includes traveling over a range, which will increase your fuel consumption compared to the usually flat Nullarbor. Windy conditions on the Nullarbor may also decrease your fuel economy.
Here’s a tip for young players, not every roadhouse will have fuel for you. Things happen – fuel orders don’t arrive on time or fuel pumps break and parts take a while to reach them. So it’s always best to carry enough spare fuel to get to the next town along the highway, should you need to.
Even with a fully equipped 4WD with a bull bar and side and rear protection bars, you’d be mad to head out after dark, so don’t do it. The Nullarbor has huge herds of kangaroos and emus out in force at night, and they are big animals. Hitting one is like hitting a telephone pole. A single animal strike could cut your journey short and have you stranded out in the thick of it – hundreds of kilometres from help. I’m not sure roadside assistance will be there to help you in 30 minutes or less.
Also here is something you might not have considered. If you’re only doing a one-way trip going from Perth to Adelaide is easier, as you won’t get the afternoon sun in your eyes. We also recommend not driving more than eight hours a day. Not only does it get pretty boring out on the road at times, but it’s also always better to be refreshed for the next day and not tired when getting behind the wheel again.
Finding a place to stay along the Nullarbor isn’t as hard as you’d think. There are a few caravan parks spread out along the highway. Free camping is also an option, but you’ll need to research spots before leaving, as the South Australian side is designated Aboriginal land and you’ll need a permit to stay there.
The weather on the Nullarbor can change in an instant so you’ve got to be prepared for anything. The wettest months are between May and August, where sporadic storms cross over the area.
The peak season for the crossing is during winter, mostly due to the cooler daytime temperatures. It’s far hotter in summer and can reach up to 50 degrees.
August to March is the windiest period, with mornings being windier than afternoons. Some squalls that roll across the Nullarbor are even powerful enough to make you lose control of your trailer. If you do happen to get caught in one, you should either pull over or reduce your speed. Check-in with the local roadhouses for the latest weather.
Just like Kangaroos and Emus, you will also see Road Trains on your trip. Because the road is a sealed, dual-way road, so you won’t have to pull over into the dirt to let them past. But, it’s still a good idea to slow down if they’re passing you, as the turbulence from their vehicle may rock your vehicle and trailer.
Just like when you arrive in Tasmania when crossing between Western Australia and South Australia, you’ll have to go through a ‘quarantine zone’ in each state to remove any fruit or vegetables that you may have on you. This is to prevent any insects or diseased foods from entering each state. If you are carrying any fruits or veggies between the states, you’ll need to declare them when you reach the checkpoint. If not you can risk fines or worse, being turned away at the border.
Having a UHF radio is also a worthy investment, as you’ll be able to communicate with oncoming road trains or other travelers on the road if there’s an incident. Seriously don’t rely on mobile phone coverage on this trip. Make sure you have a UHF Radio. Mobile service is fairly patchy across the plains, but Telstra is said to be the most reliable provider for mobile communications while crossing the Nullarbor. If you don’t have reception, many roadhouses will have a payphone connected to a landline.
There’s actually a surprisingly large amount of things to do along the way. Here are a few of our favourites:
- The roadhouse in Balladonia has a museum attached to it. Inside you’ll find debris from NASA’s Skylab that landed nearby, historical documents from the Royal Flying Doctor Service, a collection of seashells that dates back millions of years, and the history of the local Aboriginal people.
- If you’re a seafood lover, Ceduna (where you’ll either start or finish your Nullarbor crossing) is world-famous for its oysters.
- The lookout at the Head of the Bight Centre on the far west coast is the perfect viewing platform to see Southern Right Whales as they migrate to the area between June and September. If you want to get up close with them, boating tours operate in the area too. This can be found on the way between Nullarbor and Border Town.
- Check out Nullarbor Links, the world’s longest golf course which is 18 holes spread over 1,300kms. You can even hire clubs at each of the holes. From wedge-tailed eagles to dingos, herds of emus, and a variety of reptile species, the Nullarbor is abundant in Aussie wildlife.
- Take a break at the ‘big things’ along the way on the Nullarbor. In Ceduna, you’ll find the Big Oyster, the Big Kangaroo at the Border Village, the Big Galah at Kimba, and the Big Wombat in Scotdesco (near Ceduna)
- Explore the Koonalda and Murrawijinie Caves near the Nullarbor Roadhouse to see the world’s longest cave system
- If you’re traveling in a 4WD, venture into some of the ruined telegraph stations just off the highway.
Finally… If you do make the trip be sure to send us some pictures. Have a great trip
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